Traditional Treasures: The Art and Legacy of Chinese Pu’er Tea

Exhibition of hundred-year-old Pure Concentrated Tea Cubes at the Palace Museum

By Cecilia Aisin-Gioro | Columnist

In the world of traditional Chinese culture, few beverages capture the essence of heritage quite like Pu’er tea. This fermented tea, originating from the lush mountains of Yunnan, was traded along the ancient Tea Horse Route of the Silk Road, extending its influence far beyond China. While the origins and health benefits of Pu’er tea are well known, fewer people are aware that Pu’er concentrated tea cubes (also known as chagao in China) represent a unique production process and drinking method, specially crafted for the royal families of various Chinese dynasties.

A Symbol of Heritage and Craftsmanship

Unlike ordinary loose-leaf tea, the production of Pu’er concentrated tea blocks is complex. It involves meticulous steps, from selecting the right tea varieties and harvest periods to washing, steaming, fermenting, pressing, filtering, shaping, drying, and storing under controlled temperatures to allow continued fermentation. Each step requires precision, and the finished tea concentrate blocks often bear inscriptions or designs that denote their origin and craftsmanship. These details serve as signatures, elevating each tea cube into a work of art and making it the world’s first form of instant tea.

The Qing Imperial Concentrated Tea Showroom at the Palace Museum

Pu’er tea cubes have long symbolized tradition, reverence, and mastery in tea making. The Qing Dynasty imperial concentrated tea cubes, in particular, began with Emperor Yongzheng (1678-1735), who worked with a group of Taoist priests (essentially chemists) to develop health elixirs and refine the method of making concentrated tea cubes as a healthy drink. They enhanced the recipe by adding ginseng, cinnamon, and other herbs, making the tea richer in health benefits.

Concentrated Pu’er tea cubes were highly regarded by the Qing imperial court for their medicinal properties and were even included in the Chinese medical book Compendium of Materia Medica Sequel. This special tea spans Chinese history, from the Tang and Song dynasties to the Qing dynasty, and continues to be appreciated today, telling a story of cultural significance and royal heritage.

Ginseng Pu’er tea bars that remain drinkable for over a hundred years at Forbidden City

Pu’er concentrated tea cubes carry the same complex, multi-layered flavors as loose-leaf tea but are clearer and easier to drink. Often referred to as the “Mother of the Tea Tree,” Pu’er tea has roots tracing back thousands of years. The concentrated tea cubes condense the essence and soul of the mother tea tree. While ordinary Pu’er tea has become a popular drink, concentrated tea cubes are even more prestigious. Ordinary grades were enjoyed by commoners and Tibetan Lamaist monasteries, while top-grade cubes were reserved for the Chinese emperor’s palace, becoming special collections or exclusive beverages for the elite.

A Glimpse Into History: Tang, Song, and Qing Dynasties

The history of Pu’er tea is as rich and layered as its flavor. It began during the Tang Dynasty (618-907), when tea was first recognized as a vital part of Chinese culture. During this period, tea was considered a luxury item, enjoyed by the elite. However, it was not just a drink but also a form of tribute, with compressed tea bricks often being presented to the imperial court as a symbol of reverence. These early forms of concentrated tea blocks were crafted meticulously, signifying their status as gifts to emperors and high-ranking officials.

During the Song Dynasty (960-1279), tea culture flourished even further. The production and refinement of tea bricks reached new heights as tea became a symbol of sophistication and was integrated into various ceremonies. The development of “dragon and phoenix” tea cakes, pressed into intricate shapes, marked the peak of tea brick artistry during this era. It was also during this time that tea gained a broader following beyond the aristocracy, spreading across different regions of China.

Exhibit of ‘Dragon’s Nine Sons’ at the Heritage Tea Museum in China

By the Qing Dynasty, Emperor Qianlong (1711-1799), the successor of Emperor Yongzheng, had a profound fondness for Pu’er concentrated tea that went beyond personal taste. He ordered court artisans to refine and perfect the brewing and pressing methods, leading to the creation of a special imperial recipe that would be followed meticulously in the Qing court. When Lord Macartney visited the Qing Dynasty in 1792, Pu’er concentrated tea cubes were presented as a state gift to King George IV of England, symbolizing cultural exchange and goodwill.

The special recipe became closely associated with the Aisin Gioro family, the ruling clan of the Qing Dynasty. As the imperial tea, it was exclusively served to members of the royal family, becoming a symbol of their refined taste and status. After the Qing Dynasty’s fall, this unique recipe was almost lost, along with many other cultural artifacts and practices. However, the legacy of the tea blocks lived on, preserved by those who cherished the Aisin Gioro family’s traditions.

Replicas of Song Dynasty palace cicada-shaped tea cubes at Heritage Tea Museum in China

The Revival of a Lost Art

Following the collapse of the Qing Dynasty, the process of making imperial Pu’er concentrated tea cubes was nearly forgotten, disappearing for close to a century. Since 2002, under the leadership of biologist Chen Jie, researchers have worked to study the ancient tea cubes from the Forbidden City that have withstood the test of time. By examining these well-preserved imperial tea cubes, they sought to revive the nearly lost art of making royal concentrated tea. After three years of research, they succeeded in restoring more than 180 of the original technological processes used during the Qing Dynasty. With modern technology, they were able to bring the Forbidden City tea cubes into the present, creating a series of concentrated tea products that reflect the rich historical legacy of the past.

In 2011, the China Chagao Museum was officially established in Kunming, Yunnan. The museum showcases a collection of imperial concentrated tea blocks, bars, cubes, and palace melon-shaped tea from past dynasties. It works closely with biologist Chen Jie to produce and display these tea blocks as both cultural treasures and art forms. The museum’s collection is highly regarded, with its tea pastes featured in prestigious institutions such as the Palace Museum and Prince Kung’s Mansion in China, as well as the Royal Botanic Gardens in the UK.

The Origin of Pu’er Concentrated Tea Block, as collected by the Heritage Tea Museum

The Heritage Tea Museum (China Chagao Museum): A Tribute to Tradition

The Pu’er Concentrated Tea Museum stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of this ancient craft. It celebrates the traditional techniques and artistry behind Pu’er tea blocks while educating visitors on the intricate processes that make each piece unique. From harvesting and fermentation to pressing and molding, the museum’s exhibits document every stage of production, showing how traditional practices have been revived and refined using modern tea technology.

The museum’s collection includes both ancient replicas and contemporary creations, allowing visitors to trace the evolution of the craft over centuries. Among the prized exhibits are tea blocks crafted using the once-lost Qing Dynasty techniques, including those based on the original recipes ordered by Emperor Qianlong. These concentrated tea blocks, continuing to age and develop, retain their flavors and medicinal qualities, embodying the timeless essence of Chinese tea culture. The intricate designs on these blocks still bear the marks of the imperial legacy, connecting them to the rich heritage of the Aisin Gioro family.

Replica of Qing Emperor Kangxi’s ‘Fu’ Concentred Tea as collected by the Heritage Tea Museum.

A Modern Renaissance in Tea Culture

The revival of Pu’er tea blocks is not just about preserving an ancient craft—it represents a renewed interest in cultural identity and heritage. As global fascination with wellness and traditional practices grows, Pu’er concentrated tea has found a place not only as a beverage but also as a cultural symbol. The museum plays a vital role in promoting this message, inviting visitors from around the world to explore the rich history, tea art, and craftsmanship encapsulated in each tea block.

The museum positions Pu’er tea blocks as a fusion of tradition and modernity, establishing international partnerships to showcase the intricate and unique craftsmanship of these tea blocks at museums and cultural festivals worldwide. It hopes that the rich flavors and stories embedded in these tea art pieces will be carefully preserved and passed down through generations.

Exhibit of the ‘Gold Melon Tea Collection Wall’ at the Heritage Tea Museum in China

Preserving Heritage for Future Generations

The efforts to revive and preserve the art of Pu’er concentrated tea blocks are not just about looking back but ensuring that future generations can appreciate this intricate tradition. The art of Pu’er tea blocks, much like traditional Chinese calligraphy or painting, is a living heritage. It tells the story of a culture that values patience, precision, and respect for nature. Through its meticulous craftsmanship, each block carries the legacy of artisans who have dedicated their lives to mastering this art form, reflecting the timeless pursuit of balance, harmony, and excellence.

Timeless Treasures of Chinese Culture

Pu’er tea art blocks are more than a drink; they are artifacts that tell stories of endurance, artistry, and cultural pride. The China Chagao Museum continues to honor this legacy, ensuring that these “eternal treasures” remain vibrant and accessible to future generations. With a resurgence of interest in traditional tea practices, the museum stands as a guardian of this rich heritage, inviting the world to discover the beauty and history contained in every tea block. As visitors admire the intricate designs and savor the flavors of these age-old tea blocks, they connect to a part of Chinese history that transcends time and borders.