Netflix’s ‘The Crown’ Auction marked a historic moment as over 450 meticulously crafted pieces from the acclaimed TV series found new homes, fetching a remarkable £1,674,000 at Bonhams, London. The auction, which boasted an impressive 100% sell-through rate, exceeded all expectations, showcasing the enduring allure of this beloved show.
The auction, which spanned both live and online platforms, captured the attention of collectors and fans alike. Charlie Thomas, Bonhams UK Group Director for Private & Iconic Collections, expressed his gratitude for the collaboration with Left Bank Pictures, the production company behind “The Crown.” He hailed the event as a resounding success, attributing it to both the series’ undeniable popularity and the exceptional talent involved in its creation.
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Among the most coveted items were iconic props and costumes that breathed life into the world of “The Crown.” The top lot, a 1987 Jaguar XJ-SC 3.6L Cabriolet, used to depict Princess Diana’s personal vehicle, fetched an astonishing £70,250, surpassing its estimate fourfold.
The funeral procession model of Imelda Staunton as the Queen, prominently featured in the final episode of “The Crown” (Season 6, Episode 10), sold for £53,740, six times its pre-sale estimate of £8,000-12,000.
Additionally, a parquetry and gilt metal mounted cylinder bureau in the Louis XVI style, initially showcased in Season 2 in the Audience Room by Claire Foy, Olivia Colman, and Imelda Staunton as the Queen, realized a selling price of £46,080, significantly surpassing its pre-sale estimate of £2,000-3,000.
Other notable sales included a reproduction of the Coronation Chair (Saint Edward’s Chair) which sold for £25,600, surpassing its pre-sale estimate of £10,000-20,000.
Moreover, a replica of the famous wrought iron gates of Buckingham Palace fetched £12,800, exceeding the pre-sale estimate of £6,000-8,000, while a replica of the façade of Number 10 Downing Street sold for £10,880.
The allure of “The Crown” extended beyond grandeur to encompass the exquisite costumes worn by its stellar cast. Replicas of the Coronation Ceremonial Garments, including the Imperial Mantle and Stole, commanded significant sums, as did the iconic ‘Revenge dress’ inspired by Princess Diana’s fashion statement which sold for £12,800. These pieces not only encapsulated the essence of the characters but also served as tangible connections to the show’s rich narrative tapestry.
Even the smallest details, such as character props and quirky memorabilia, found eager buyers. A humble swizzle stick, used in portraying the Queen Mother, fetched an astounding £1,664, a testament to the fervent dedication of collectors seeking to own a piece of television history. However, beyond the glitz and glamour, the true significance of this auction lies in its charitable impact. Proceeds from the live auction will fund scholarships at the prestigious National Film and Television School (NFTS), laying the groundwork for the Left Bank Pictures – The Crown Scholarship program. This initiative aims to provide fully-funded scholarships for aspiring filmmakers, ensuring that the legacy of “The Crown” extends far beyond the confines of the screen.
A highlight of the live sale was the appearance of actor Alex Jennings, who portrayed the Duke of Windsor in the series. His corduroy blazer and trousers from a pivotal episode found a new owner, further adding to the auction’s allure.
Prior to the auction, an exclusive exhibition at Bonhams New Bond Street drew an unprecedented 30,000 visitors, underscoring the profound impact of “The Crown” on popular culture. In response to the auction’s success, Andy Harries, Chief Executive of Left Bank Pictures, expressed his satisfaction, emphasizing the importance of giving back to the industry that made the series possible. Jon Wardle, Director of the NFTS, echoed this sentiment, highlighting the transformative impact of the auction proceeds on future generations of filmmakers.
As the final gavel fell and the last bids were placed, the legacy of “The Crown” was etched in history, not only as a groundbreaking television series but also as a catalyst for change within the film and television industry.
A Superb Colored Diamond Ring – Fancy vivid blue cushion-cut internally flawless diamond of 3.49 carats | Price Realized $5,495,000 | Christie’s
BY AMANDA MCKINLEY
On December 6th, Christie’s Rockefeller Center in Manhattan witnessed an extravagant showcase of luxury as the Magnificent Jewels auction unfolded. This event saw fervent bidding both in-person and over the phones, culminating in a remarkable total of $38,135,080. Impressively, 90% of the 152 lots available found buyers. The auction presented an exquisite collection of rare diamonds, significant colored stones, and distinguished jewels from renowned collections.
Leading the auction was a 3.49-carat fancy vivid blue cushion-cut diamond ring, internally flawless, which was acquired for a notable $5,495,000. Another highlight was a 5.16-carat fancy vivid yellowish orange diamond ring with a VS2 clarity, fetching $1,683,500. The list of impressive sales for colored diamonds continued with a 61.47-carat fancy greenish yellow modified-cut diamond, which was secured for $1,562,500.
Colored stones also made a significant mark during the sale, with numerous lots surpassing their anticipated values. Notable examples include a Cartier-mounted emerald-cut Kashmir sapphire ring weighing 23.00 carats, which soared to $3,014,500—more than three times its conservative estimate of $800,000. Additionally, a Tiffany & Co. cushion-cut Kashmir sapphire ring of 8.91 carats was sold for $1,925,500, while a 7.31-carat cushion-cut Burmese ruby ring realized $1,134,000. Among the surprises, a pair of Tiffany & Co. sapphire and diamond earrings were acquired for a whopping $453,600, which was eleven times their lower estimate of $40,000. An emerald-cut emerald ring weighing 9.13 carats fetched $1,008,000, a value more than five times its minimum estimate.
Further adding to the allure of the auction were pieces from esteemed private collections. A Van Cleef & Arpels multi-gem and diamond bracelet, once part of the Collection of Adolphus Andrews, Jr. and Emily Taylor Andrews, sold for $138,600, surpassing its estimate of $50,000. Similarly, a striking Seaman Schepps Art Deco rock crystal, multi-gem, and diamond bracelet from the Estate of Mary Lloyd Robb achieved $144,900 against its lower estimate of $40,000.
Christie’s, established in 1766, stands as a premier institution in the art and luxury domain. With a global footprint spanning 46 countries across the Americas, Europe, Middle East, and Asia Pacific, Christie’s has cemented its presence with flagship sales hubs in cities like New York, London, Hong Kong, Paris, and Geneva.
In the world of high-end custom jewelry, JM Gems, founded by the female entrepreneur Peggy Elias, has firmly established itself as a luxury firm known for its artistic brilliance and precision craftsmanship. For over a decade, JM Gems has been enchanting the world with its bespoke creations, capturing the hearts of jewelry lovers, celebrities, and even royals across the Middle East, Asia, Europe, and now North America.
At the heart of JM Gems lies an unwavering commitment to producing high-quality custom jewelry. Crafted from the finest precious metals and gemstones on Earth, each piece is a testament to the brand’s dedication to excellence. The founder and Head Designer, Peggy Elias, brings over 15 years of international recognition to the table, ensuring that every creation is a masterpiece.
One of the hallmarks of JM Gems is its emphasis on custom design. The brand prides itself on producing truly exceptional works of fine jewelry art. With a keen eye for detail, experienced jewelers meticulously craft each piece, turning dreams into reality. JM Gems’ design services extend worldwide, with their unique designs being sought after by jewelry producers and stores in the UAE, Canada, and beyond.
The company’s imagination knows no bounds, resulting in limited edition and single-copy jewelry that guarantees exclusivity. If you can dream it, JM Gems can make it. The brand’s commitment to precision ensures that each item is a finely crafted masterpiece, meticulously inspected and tested to perfection before reaching the client.
“JM Gems is not just a jewelry brand; it’s a curator of dreams”
Peggy Elias, the driving force behind JM Gems, is not only an owner but also a seasoned appraiser approved by the Canadian Jewellers Association. As a Graduate Gemmologist with certification from HRD Antwerp, Peggy brings a wealth of expertise to the brand.
JM Gems primarily crafts its jewelry from 18 to 22 karat gold, platinum, and the finest gemstones available. Peggy Elias believes that jewelry should not only be beautiful but should also represent the true essence of the wearer. Her designs, exhibited and sold worldwide, have garnered attention in top magazines and attracted orders from celebrities and royals.
The essence of JM Gems is encapsulated in Peggy Elias’s words: “With attention to every detail, we will make your jewelry dreams come true.” This international high-end jewelry brand isn’t just about creating jewelry; it’s about making lives sparkle with the brilliance of uniquely crafted, one-of-a-kind pieces that resonate with style, luxury, and individuality. For those seeking to embody these values, JM Gems is the destination where dreams find a tangible form, creating an everlasting legacy of elegance and sophistication.
The award-winning series, The Crown, is one of Netflix’s most prestigious and acclaimed shows. Now, as the final series premieres, Bonhams announces a once-in-a-lifetime auction of close to 450 props, furniture, and costumes – including those inspired by Queen Elizabeth’s Coronation Robes and Princess Diana’s ‘Revenge dress’ – from all six series of The Crown, written and created by Peter Morgan and produced by Left Bank Pictures and Sony Pictures Television.
A live sale of approximately 150 lots will take place on Wednesday 7 February 2024 at Bonhams, New Bond Street, London, followed by an online auction of around 300 lots commencing on 30 January to 8 February on bonhams.com. Proceeds from the live sale will go towards establishing the Left Bank Pictures –The Crown Scholarship programme at the National Film and Television School (NFTS) which has training sites across the UK in Buckinghamshire, London, Leeds, Scotland, and Wales.
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Charlie Thomas, Bonhams UK Group Director for House Sales and Private & Iconic Collections commented: “The iconic costumes, props and set pieces from The Crown are extensively researched and made with truly impressive attention to detail by master craftspeople. Not only is this an incredible opportunity to own pieces from the landmark show, it is also the closest anyone can come to owning the real thing – be it the façade of 10 Downing Street or Princess Diana’s engagement ring.”
The ambition and attention to detail of The Crown’s costumes, props and sets was central to the deserved acclaim the British production received. Oscar-winning production designer, Martin Childs, and his team meticulously recreated two of the most famous addresses in the world – Downing Street and Buckingham Palace. The recreation of Number 10 Downing Street façade and front door is offered in the sale with an estimate of £20,000-30,000 along with the replica of the famous wrought-iron gates of Buckingham Palace, with an estimate of £6,000-8,000.
The Number 10 Downing Street façade created by The Crown’s Set and Props Department, including the iconic, black-painted door with letterbox engraved ‘First Lord of the Treasury’, lantern, railings, and boot-scrapers. Estimate: £20,000-30,000.
Poring over hours of archive footage, The Crown’s creative team captured as much of the reality of the Coronation as possible. The exquisite recreation of The Queen’s Coronation ordaining dress, Imperial Mantle and red Coronation robe will be offered in the sale with an estimate of £20,000-30,000, alongside the world’s only reproduction of the Gold State Coach with an estimate of £30,000-50,000, and a reproduction of the Coronation Chair (Saint Edward’s Chair) with an estimate of £10,000-20,000.
Costumes including a dress inspired by Princess Diana’s ‘Revenge Dress’
The sale will also feature some magnificent and memorable costumes worn by the cast playing the wider Royal Family over the course of the series. These were created by three award-winning designers, Michele Clapton (Season 1), Jane Petrie (Season 2), and Amy Roberts (Season 3 to 6), who worked with Sidonie Roberts, Associate Costume Designer.
The costumes were painstakingly crafted so that each outfit expressed the mood and personality of the characters portrayed, and was extensively researched and recreated with an exacting eye for detail. Nowhere is this more evident than with the dress inspired by Princess Diana’s ‘Revenge Dress’, which Elizabeth Debicki (as Princess Diana) wore to the Serpentine Gallery. The ‘Revenge dress’, an off-the-shoulder black cocktail dress from season 5 episode 5, and worn by Elizabeth Debicki (as Princess Diana), has an estimate of £8,000-12,000.
Claire Foy (as The Queen): Powder blue ballgown with pearl embellishment featured in the promotional poster with fur stole and grey leather court shoes. Season 1 Episode 5. Estimate: £5,000-7,000.
Emma Corrin (as Lady Diana Spencer): Engagement ring. Estimate: £2,000-3,000.
Emma Corrin (as Lady Diana Spencer): Engagement announcement, a royal blue crepe skirt suit with pussybow blouse. Season 4 Episode 3. Estimate: £1,500-2,000.
Claire Foy (as The Queen): Full-length teal ballgown, featured in promotional posters, with pale gold satin pointed heels. Season 2 Episode 1 and Episode 4. Estimate: £3,000-5,000.
Elizabeth Debicki (as Princess Diana): Grey ‘Harvard’ sweatshirt. Season 5 Episode 7. Estimate: £500-700.
Emma Corrin (as Princess Diana): Blue dancing dress with silver flecks and flounce sleeves. Season 4 Episode 6. Estimate: £2,000-3,000.
Helena Bonham Carter (as Princess Margaret): Full-length pale silver and grey banquet gown as seen in the Guildhall Banqueting scene, also featured in promotional posters. Season 3 Episode 9. Estimate: £2,000-3,000.
Elizabeth Debicki (as Princess Diana): Leopard print swimsuit and sunglasses as seen in the Gulf of St Tropez, Speed Boat scene. Season 6 Episode 1. Estimate: £800-1,200.
Elizabeth Debicki (as Princess Diana): Jaguar – a 1987 Jaguar XJ-SC 3.6 Estimate: £15,000-20,000.
Jaguar – a 1987 Jaguar XJ-SC 3.6 Estimate: £15,000-20,000
Jonathan Pryce (as Prince Philip): Desk – a French early 20th century mahogany and gilt-metal mounted pedestal desk, together with a variety of desk accessories. Estimate: £3,000-5,000.
Imelda Staunton (as The Queen): Bureau – a mahogany bureau cabinet in the George III Rococo style, together with a collection of porcelain decorated figures, desk lamp, a leather writing blotter, photograph frames and other accessories. Estimate: £3,000-5,000.
Lesley Manville (as Princess Margaret): A suite of luggage, comprising three steamer trunks, a leather suitcase and two hatboxes with cream lining, all painted in cream with The Crown’s crowned ‘M’ monogram. Estimate: £1,000-1,500.
A suite of luggage for Lesley Manville (as Princess Margaret) Estimate £1,000-1,500
The Queen Mother: A champagne swizzle stick together with a selection of character bar props compiled by The Crown’s Prop Department including a silver-plated drinks tray, cut-glass ice bucket and matched tumbler, silver-plated ice tongs, a BOC Sparklets soda syphon, in gold and other accessories. Estimate: £60-80.
Two Beswick porcelain models of corgis (17cm wide, 7cm deep, 14cm high) together with a silver mounted photograph frame, enclosing a black and white photograph of a corgi. Estimate: £200-300.
A Lasting Legacy: Left Bank Pictures – The Crown Scholarship program
Proceeds from the live auction will go towards establishing a brand-new stream of funding for the National Film and Television School (NFTS) giving rise to the Left Bank Pictures – The Crown Scholarship programme. This will support a number of students at the NFTS over the next 20 years, enabling them to receive the specialised training for which the school is globally renowned.
Elizabeth Debicki (as Princess Diana): Harvard Jumper worn in Season 5 Episode 7. Estimate: £500-700
Jon Wardle, Director of the National Film and Television School, said:“We are thrilled that future talent flowing from the National Film and Television School (NFTS) will benefit from the exceptional items generously donated by Left Bank Pictures and The Crown. Since its inception, the dedicated craftsmanship of over 60 NFTS alumni has been pivotal in bringing such an iconic series to life. The proceeds from the auction will play a crucial role in supporting life-changing scholarships, ensuring the next generation of film and television makers are given the opportunity to benefit from our world-renowned training, paying forward The Crown’s legacy for many years to come.”
Andy Harries, Chief Executive of Left Bank Pictures and Executive Producer of The Crown, added: “It has been a privilege for me and all at Left Bank Pictures to have been at the heart of The Crown. Its huge global success has much to do with working with the best creative and production talent in this country and we want to invest the proceeds of this magnificent auction into the next generation of film and TV talent. The NFTS has been part of The Crown’s history from the start with many of its graduates contributing to the production of the show over the years. I have long admired the ethos and training of the school and supported it personally. So, I am thrilled that the legacy of The Crown will be to provide so much financial support for so many students at the NFTS over the next few decades. With their unrivalled knowledge and expertise in Film and Entertainment memorabilia, Bonhams was the sole choice of partners for us. Their specialists’ excitement, vision and passion for The Crown Auction was evident from the start.”
The Crown will take its final bow when the last six episodes will be released on Netflix from 14 December, marking the end of the groundbreaking series.
Max Verstappen’s signed Oracle Red Bull Racing 2023 Dutch Grand Prix race weekend worn overalls | Bonhams
The dark blue Oracle Red Bull Racing overalls worn by three-time Formula 1 World Champion Max Verstappen over the 2023 Dutch Grand Prix weekend will be offered in the Bonhams | Cars Abu Dhabi Auction Online from 17 – 30 November. Driving his Red Bull RB19, Verstappen finished in 1st position at the 2023 Dutch Grand Prix weekend in Zandvoort, in front of his home crowd, marking his 46th Grand Prix race victory. Signed by the World Champion with a Certificate of Authenticity from the Oracle Red Bull Racing Formula One Team, and estimated at £60,000 – £70,000, the overalls will be sold to benefit Red Bull’s Wings for Life charity. Verstappen is only the fifth driver in the sport’s history to win three consecutive championships, as well as joining an elite club of drivers who have won three or more World Championships.
“It’s a rare opportunity to offer Formula 1 racing overalls from such a globally renowned champion, especially when it comes from a race weekend that landed a victory in their home country – a triumph that holds a special place in the heart of any F1 driver,” commented James Garguilo, Specialist for Bonhams|Cars Automobilia Department.
Max Verstappen’s signed Oracle Red Bull Racing 2023 Dutch Grand Prix race weekend worn overalls | Bonhams
Red Bull’s Wings for Life charity was founded in 2004 by Red Bull owner Dietrich Mateschitz and the two-time motocross world champion Heinz Kinigadner after Heinz’s son Hannes suffered a spinal cord injury. The organization funds world class scientific research and clinical trials around the globe aimed at finding a cure for spinal cord injuries.
Emma Hind, CEO Wings for Life, commented, “Wings for Life are absolutely delighted to be partnering with Bonhams|Cars on this exclusive auction in line with the Abu Dhabi GP. Both Oracle Red Bull Racing and Max Verstappen are huge supporters of Wings for Life, and this championship race suit will help raise vital funds for pioneering research projects that have and will continue to change people’s lives.”
The online sale runs in conjunction with On the Grid: The Abu Dhabi Auction, in an exclusive partnership with Bonhams|Cars and the Formula 1 Paddock Club, taking place at the FORMULA 1® ETIHAD AIRWAYS ABU DHABI GRAND PRIX 2023 on 25 November.
Max Verstappen’s signed Oracle Red Bull Racing 2023 Dutch Grand Prix race weekend worn overalls | Bonhams
The 97-lot automobilia sale will include race-used helmets, F1 body panels, posters, signed pictures as well as replica gloves and helmets. Highlights include:
Alain Prost‘s 1984 race worn Dallas Grand Prix GPA helmet in his iconic design with marks and scratches from race wear, estimated at £10,000 – 12,000. An unforgettable race, the Dallas Grand Prix was a one-off event due to a number of heat-related issues which resulted in only 8 out of the 26 drivers making it across the finish line. Driving for McLaren, Prost was forced to retire on lap 56 after a collision with the wall resulted in a puncture.
Two of Valtteri Bottas’ helmets – one a 2020 AMG Mercedes Benz F1 signed helmet used during the Portugese Portimao and Italian Emilia Romagna race weekends, estimated at £11,000 – 15,000, and the other an Alfa Romeo F1 signed helmet used during the Inaugural 2022 Miami Grand Prix weekend in Friday’s practice session, estimated at £24,000 – 26,000.
A signed McLaren Mercedes race suit worn by Jenson Button during the 2011 Monaco Grand Prix where Button finished in 3rd place, estimated at £3,000 – 5,000.
A McLaren 620R Spider Bonnet signed by McLaren F1 drivers Lando Norris, Oscar Piastri, and CEO Zac Brown, estimated at £2,000 – 3,000. Proceeds from the sale of this lot will benefit ‘It’s Never You’ – a charity dedicated to supporting the parents of children with cancer.
Max Verstappen driving the Oracle Red Bull Racing RB19 on track during the F1 Grand Prix | Photo by Dean Mouhtaropoulos
Bonhams, founded in 1793, is one of the world’s largest and most renowned auctioneers, offering fine art and collectables, collectors’ cars and a luxury division, which includes jewellery, designer fashion, watches, wine, and whisky. In 2021 and 2022, Bonhams made a number of important acquisitions which form the wider Bonhams network. These include: Bukowskis, Bruun Rasmussen, Bonhams Skinner and Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr. Top lots for 2022 included a 1955 Porsche 550 Spyder (Sold for US$4,185,000), a pair of blue and white octagonal candlesticks (Sold for HK$30,453,00/ US$3,911,913), La femme en rouge au fond bleu by Chaïm Soutine (Sold for £1,842,300/ US$2,236,940), and a rare emerald and diamond Cartier bracelet (Sold for US$3,240,375).
Brooch Set with Rubies, Natural Pearls, and Diamonds from the Jewel Collection of Empress Eugénie, the Last Empress of France, Horovitz & Totah.
This exceptional brooch, adorned with rubies, natural pearls, and diamonds, once part of the vast jewel collection belonging to Empress Eugénie, the last Empress of France, was sold in late September to an anonymous buyer. Regrettably, this exquisite item will not be on display.
In its 7th edition, GemGenève proudly presents a poetic exhibition titled “The Pearl Odyssey.” This extraordinary showcase features over thirty exquisite jewels and outstanding pieces, embodying the show’s unwavering dedication to promoting the artistry of jewelry. Collaborating in this unprecedented venture, Chaumet, the Flee Project collective, a significant private collector, and various partner exhibitors have united to display their most magnificent items.
The exhibition, with its immersive ambiance, delves into the enchanting world of pearl divers in the Persian Gulf and beyond. The journey continues into a realm of creativity, unveiling imperial jewels, exceptional pearls, and exclusive historic pieces from esteemed private collections. These treasures reflect the diverse styles and fashions that have prevailed throughout the ages. The exhibition culminates in a scientific exploration, presenting the history of pearl study since the last century, organized with the support of the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF). This segment focuses on the vital distinctions between natural and cultured pearls, providing a comprehensive overview of the expert techniques employed to assess the quality and origin of pearls from around the globe.
Bayadère Necklace, 1922–1924, by Joseph Chaumet
As Ronny Totah, an enthusiast and specialist in natural pearls, aptly puts it, “The perfect nature of natural pearls lies in their inherent imperfection, making each pearl unique, with its distinct size, shape, color, and sheen. From round to tear-shaped, pearls exhibit a mesmerizing array of hues, from pure white to dark black, including shades like pink, champagne, and iridescent blue-green reminiscent of insects’ wings.”
Pearls, once considered outdated and too traditional, have made a remarkable resurgence in the world of jewelry in recent years. Symbolizing wealth, prestige, and femininity, pearl jewels have transcended ages, fashions, and styles with unparalleled elegance. Constantly elevated by daring jewelers, pearls hold a special place in the history of jewelry. “The Pearl Odyssey” retraces the captivating story of pearls and their enduring tradition. Through a carefully curated selection of thirty outstanding pieces from esteemed private and heritage collections, alongside previously unseen projects and archival materials, visitors can explore the creativity and expertise developed around the world’s oldest jewel and delve into the science of pearls.
The Miracle of Pearls
Impressive Devant-de-corsage Ornament Brooch by Vever, 1900 – Faerber Collection
This striking Devant-de-corsage ornament brooch, created by Vever in 1900, is a remarkable piece from the Faerber Collection. The photograph is credited to Katharina Faerber, showcasing the intricate craftsmanship and timeless elegance of this extraordinary jewelry item.
Pearls are as marvelous as they are enigmatic. Whether through miracle or accident, a pearl-producing shellfish forms a tiny concretion that it envelops with thin layers of mother-of-pearl. Eventually, a natural pearl emerges, displaying colors ranging from bright white to dark black or shades of grey, blue, green, or purple. Oceans worldwide, from Japan to South America, Australia to Sri Lanka, and through the Mozambique Channel, have served as vital grounds for pearl diving throughout history. These marine gems have been sought after and admired for their beauty for millennia.
The oldest pearl harvested by humans, over 8,500 years old, was discovered in Mexico. In ancient China, pearls were offered to gods and sovereigns, captivating imaginations with their mysterious origins. From mermaids’ tears to dragon’s spit, the origins of pearls have inspired legends across cultures. During the Roman Empire, pearls symbolized luxury and fortune, experiencing their first golden age as the preferred jewel among the elite. For centuries, pearl divers risked their lives, diving up to forty meters deep in the Persian Gulf region, forming a rich heritage inseparable from the history of pearl farming.
Pearls in the History of Jewelry
Noble and elegant, pearls have fascinated jewelers across civilizations. The oldest piece of pearl jewelry, a three-row necklace of 216 pearls, was discovered in Iran in 1901, belonging to a Persian princess who lived over 2,500 years ago. From Catherine de Medici to Empress Eugénie, natural pearls have adorned powerful and influential women. The Renaissance marked a golden age of pearls, gracing jewelry sets, crowns, and embroidered garments.
In the nineteenth century, pearls experienced a renaissance, with mother-of-pearl elegance prized more than the sparkle of diamonds. Fabulous jewels emerged, featuring oversized versions of iconic pearl necklaces. Pearl jewelry underwent a renaissance, with renowned houses like Chaumet, Cartier, and Vever exploring creative avenues. Baroque pearls inspired extravagant designs, becoming limitless sources of inspiration for jewelers. Throughout Art Nouveau, the Roaring Twenties, and Art Deco eras, pearls adapted to the times, sublimated in daring and imaginative ways by jewelers.
Intriguing, timeless, and elegantly mysterious, pearls have truly stood the test of time, captivating hearts and minds across centuries. “The Pearl Odyssey” invites you to embark on this enchanting journey through the ages, appreciating the unique allure and enduring beauty of pearls in the world of jewelry.
The Science of Pearls
Wristwatches for Princess Augusta Amalia of Bavaria, circa 1811, by Nitot et Fils
The origins of cultured pearls trace back to the late nineteenth century in Japan, marking a pivotal moment in the world of jewelry. While William Saville-Kent cultivated a pearl in Australia, it was Kokichi Mikimoto who intentionally introduced a foreign body into an oyster, stimulating the secretion of mother-of-pearl around it, creating the first cultured pearl in 1893. By 1905, a method for producing perfectly spherical cultured pearls was developed, revolutionizing pearl farming.
This breakthrough, however, raised intriguing questions. Did cultured pearls possess all the qualities of their natural counterparts, formed without human intervention? Joseph Chaumet, a pioneer in gemmology, examined these new pearls in his lab in 1922. His research laid the foundation for pearl classification, differentiating between natural and cultured pearls. Over time, this expertise evolved, leading to the formalization of recognized terminology for classifying pearl-forming shellfish and their production. Today, laboratory analysis plays a vital role in assessing pearl quality and determining their origins.
These exquisite wristwatches, dating back to circa 1811, were crafted by Nitot et Fils. Made from gold, natural pearls, and emeralds, these timepieces are a testament to exquisite craftsmanship. They are part of the Chaumet Collection in Paris. The photograph is credited to Nils Herrmann, capturing the timeless beauty and elegance of the wristwatches once owned by Princess Augusta Amalia of Bavaria.
The Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) stands as a global benchmarking laboratory for this specialized field since 1972. It is dedicated to research, education, and training of leading experts. SSEF offers training courses open to professionals and enthusiasts seeking to specialize in expert appraisals of natural pearls, cultured pearls, and freshwater pearls. The exhibition owes its existence to the support of Chaumet, the Flee Project collective, SSEF, a private collection, and collaborative efforts with partner exhibitors like Joseph Gad, Faerber Collection, Horovitz & Totah, Ocean Flame, Nicolas Torroni, among others. Special thanks are extended to Autre Idée design agency, Lumens8, Ferrari, Anglo-belge, and Hofer Antikschmuck for their valuable partnerships.
About GemGenève
GemGenève stands as a unique hub where jewelry designers, precious stone dealers, retailers, collectors, and enthusiasts converge. Over four days, it provides a platform to acquire exceptional pieces and be inspired by a community of gemmology and jewelry specialists. It’s not just an exhibition; it’s a laboratory of creativity and innovation, a space where recognized designers and emerging talents unite. GemGenève is a world of design, rare gems, and antique and contemporary jewelry.
The Bayadère necklace, crafted between 1922 and 1924 by Joseph Chaumet, is a remarkable piece of jewelry made from gold, platinum, natural seed pearls, sapphires, and diamonds. This exquisite creation is housed in the Chaumet Collection in Paris. The photograph is credited to Nils Herrmann, capturing the intricate details and timeless elegance of the Bayadère necklace.
Created by exhibitors, GemGenève fosters expression and exchange, encompassing passion, expertise, and education. It brings together the finest in the world of gemstones and jewelry, offering a glimpse into the intricate world of craftsmanship and artistry.
Event Details
Place | Date | Opening Hours: Address: Palexpo Hall 6, Route François-Peyrot 30, 1218 – Le Grand-Saconnex GE, Switzerland (Ten minutes’ walk from Geneva Airport) Dates: November 2 to 5, 2023 Opening Hours: 10 a.m. – 6.30 p.m. (Cash desk closes at 5.30 p.m., Sunday, November 5) Admission: CHF 50.00 (Valid for the entire duration of the exhibition; free admission for under-18s and students with a valid student card)
Pre-Event Schedule (Wednesday, November 1, 2023):
Guided Tour for Journalists: 10 a.m.
Press Conference: 11 a.m.
Preview: 2 p.m.
Opening Night: 6 p.m.
GemGenève invites you to immerse yourself in the enchanting world of pearls, where history, artistry, and science converge in a celebration of one of nature’s most captivating treasures.
Pearl and Diamond Bracelet by Cartier, 1962 – Faerber Collection
This exquisite Pearl and Diamond Bracelet, a creation by Cartier from 1962, is a stunning piece from the Faerber Collection. The photograph is credited to Katharina Faerber, capturing the timeless beauty and elegance of this remarkable bracelet.
Jean-David Malat is a distinguished celebrity art curator and owner of JD Malat Gallery. His collaborations with icons like Madonna, Kate Moss, Dolce & Gabbana, and Bono have solidified his prominence within the art world. Jean-David’s perspective within the art community stands out due to a unique blend of expertise, evoking admiration and garnering accolades. This quality makes him an engaging interviewee, as his insights possess the power to captivate and enlighten.
In your opinion, what are the most significant challenges facing the art world today, and how do you envision overcoming them?
A substantial challenge lies in ensuring visibility, accessibility, and opportunities for underrepresented artists. The market is saturated with numerous artists, many of whom lack proper guidance. It falls to gallerists and dealers to locate these talents, involving sifting through endless websites, social media, and graduate shows, engaging in conversations with them, and assisting in showcasing their work.
What are the top art trends that you are seeing, and how to capitalize on them?
Presently, abstract and female artists are driving gallery sales – we’ve consecutively hosted three exhibitions featuring female artists. Online sales are also pivotal for galleries, given the accessibility of online platforms and viewing rooms to collectors worldwide. Moreover, I’ve observed an increase in young collectors, both locally and internationally. Hence, maintaining personal engagement with visitors and cultivating a relatable social media presence that appeals to a diverse age range is vital.
Predicting with certainty is challenging, as it’s influenced by the economic landscape, though there seems to be a slight slowdown at present. Despite the multitude of options available to collectors through art fairs and galleries, I believe that art will remain a safe investment.
What makes a good art curator and how to find one?
A good art curator is someone who is genuinely passionate about their work and can be entrusted with contextualizing and portraying an artist’s work. I’ve had the privilege of collaborating with exceptional curators and have even allowed numerous art writers to curate exhibitions with us due to their substantial knowledge and research-driven approach. Young art advisors, in my experience, often excel as curators, offering fresh perspectives on various themes. My team has successfully taken on this responsibility.
Can you recall an exhibition that was particularly challenging to curate?
While not a specific one, a recurring challenge is the swift turnaround required for contemporary art exhibitions. Working within the constraints of a commercial gallery necessitates rapid execution without room for error.
How did you overcome the obstacles and achieve success?
Each day in this field presents challenges – you might have a successful show followed by several that don’t meet expectations. Yet, persistence is key. Despite the ups and downs, it’s crucial to continue experimenting and pushing forward.
As an art curator, you have access to a vast array of artworks. What criteria do you use to select pieces for your high-profile clients?
Understanding the client’s preferences and motivations is paramount. After grasping their tastes and objectives, I can then select artworks that align well with their preferences. Sometimes, a piece may be exceptionally rare or exquisite, and it might resonate with a specific client. Occasionally, clients embrace my suggestions for new artists or specific pieces even when they weren’t initially looking to purchase.
What skills must one possess to be a good art curator?
Strong research skills, a collaborative mindset, and a deep understanding of the intended audience.
Looking ahead, what are your future plans and aspirations as an art curator, and how do you envision further contributing to the global art scene?
My objective is to facilitate my artists’ international exhibitions and secure more museum acquisitions for them. Personally, I aim to continue leveraging my gallery to spotlight emerging talent and introduce their work to a global audience. We’re expanding with additional spaces and launching a residency program for young artists, starting in Iceland. Moreover, I intend to consistently bring new artists onto the global art stage.
, taking place at the FORMULA 1® ETIHAD AIRWAYS ABU DHABI GRAND PRIX 2023 on 25 November.
